#5: A Deadly Passion for Fashion

Another commodity in our daily lives is the very clothes on our back. Not only do we rely greatly on them for basic cover and warmth, they also demonstrate socio-economic status and personal identity. However, with the advent of fast fashion trends, we have come to consume much more clothing than we need, often even discarding pieces of clothing after one or two times of use. How much pollution does fast fashion really produce? Let’s explore some of the fashion industry’s ugliest effects.

 

In Production:

As shown in the video above investigating the working conditions and surrounding environments of tanneries in Dhaka, there is large scale pollution of the communal river and water supply with chemicals such as chromium, which are used in treating leather hides. Nearby residents are chronically exposed to such chemicals because they cannot afford to buy water or fish from unpolluted locations. They are also in direct contact with the chemicals when they work in the tanneries, as well as when they use the river water for cleaning. This is merely one example of how, in places with poor regulation of industrial waste, textile and leather industries are able to excessively pump dye chemicals into the air and water. Using only chromium (often used in tanneries and in paints and dyes) as an example, chronic exposure can result in:

  • Increased chance of cancer in the respiratory tract
  • Respiratory irritation
  • Severe skin illnesses and scarring
  • Liver abnormalities

 

Moreover, you may be surprised to find out that in order to produce 1 cotton T-shirt, 2700 litres of water is needed. You can find out more about the textile industry’s usage of water by watching this mini-documentary here.

This is an excessive wastage of a resource necessary for every living being in the world. Not only does this demonstrate the textile industry’s inefficient usage of the resource, but at the same time highlights the contamination of that same resource.

 

In Disposal

Shockingly, one garbage truck volume equivalent of clothing is dumped or burned in a landfill every second and the fashion industry’s carbon emissions make up 10% of the global total, with fashion companies on average burning 30% of their total stock produced (McFall-Johnsen, 2019). Such emissions contribute greatly to air pollution worldwide, particularly with the increasingly high turnover rates of clothing in stores and subsequent shorter time before excess clothing enters the dump. 

 

Aside from such air pollution, water is another natural resource rampaged by the fashion industry. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) approximates that 35% of all oceanic microplastics are due to synthetic textiles from clothing, particularly polyester, which is non-biodegradable in water bodies. Such microplastics eventually reach the ocean such as through the release of water from washing clothes and can be absorbed by aquatic organisms and humans as well. Several thousand additives are used by the plastic industry and thus such absorption and the ambiguity surrounding the toxicity of microplastics is worrying. Furthermore, the risk of ingesting other harmful chemicals and organisms attached to the plastic (pathogenic bacteria and viruses for instance), are another concern. Microplastics are still very much a new area of research and the continual release of them from the fashion industry specifically remains unchecked and prevalent. 

 

Many young adults our age are passionate about fashion and self-expression, and should such passion go towards holding the fashion industry accountable for their environmental impacts as well, much can be done to change the tide. If you are interested in learning more about both the fast fashion industry and its counter – the slow fashion movement, do check out the content below:

 

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For a local fashion industry heavily reliant on off-shore manufacturing, budget wholesale distribution and importing finished goods, what does fashion revolution mean when applied to the context of Singapore? . Are we prepared for the imperative shift that is required on a much larger scale and get down and dirty to rally change for systemic issues? Are we equipped with the knowledge and resilience to scale Fashion Revolution to a local context? . I am feeling optimistic today. As we thread carefully with respect and dignity for the world, how can fashion be represented ethically and fairly? . What does fashion revolution in Singapore mean to you? #fashionrevolutionweek #fashionrevolution #fashionrevolutionsingapore #noordinaryprotest

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Authors: Alicia Tiu and Madeleine Shutler

 

References

Environmental Health and Medicine Education. (2008). Retrieved July 03, 2020, from https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/csem/csem.asp?csem=10

McFall-Johnsen, M. (2019, October 21). The fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and maritime shipping combined. Here are the biggest ways it impacts the planet. Retrieved July 05, 2020, from https://www.businessinsider.com/fast-fashion-environmental-impact-pollution-emissions-waste-water-2019-10 

WWF. (2013). The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt. Retrieved July 03, 2020, from https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt

#4: The Toxic Cell

Whether it is the production of pollutants from directly using said common household items or production of pollution as a byproduct in manufacturing, it is time to uncover the specific hidden sources of pollutants in our homes. Today’s focus will be on batteries: especially lithium rechargeable batteries, which we use daily in our mobile phones and laptops, as well as in cars.

 

The Problem with Lithium-ion Batteries 

Ever heard reminders to properly dispose of your lithium-ion batteries in recycling boxes and collection points? You’d probably think that it’s because of the battery’s potential to explode, as shown by the many videos of Samsung phones bursting into flames. However, the real environmental danger lies in the fumes and toxic materials released by reactions within the lithium battery. Toxic gases such as CO, CO2 and Hydrogen fluoride (HF) are produced when lithium batteries react with humidity and heat. HF, in particular, is extremely corrosive and is a severe irritant. In contact with moisture, HF converts to hydrofluoric acid. It can cause prolonged damage to the eyes, respiratory system, as well as the skin. If you are interested in finding more about the dangers of lithium-ion batteries as well as how it is being recycled, do check out the video below:

 

Impacts on Water Bodies

Apart from the direct harmful impacts on human health, leakage of these gases (CO2, HF) promotes acidification of the environment. Once in the atmosphere, these gases can be transported by winds, and eventually deposited in nearby water bodies during storm events. Upon contact with water, HF will convert into hydrofluoric acid, and CO2 also dissolves to form carbonic acid. Both of these chemicals wreak havoc on the water body, by:

  • binding to Phosphorus, reducing the availability of the nutrients for aquatic plants and phytoplankton,
  • killing off more pH-sensitive aquatic organisms,
  • causing the water to become more transparent and result in increased UV damage,
  • causing bleaching of coral reefs and deformity of molluscs.

 

Byproducts in Production

Not only do the improper disposal of batteries create pollutants in the environment, but its mass production is also problematic. The main component in lithium-ion batteries is lithium metal, and the metal is locked in as salts in salt flats. 500,000 gallons of water is required to produce one tonne of lithium. The groundwater below salt flats in Chile is pumped to the surface, flushing out salts and minerals from the lower strata. The water is allowed to evaporate on the surface, leaving lithium salt sediments for collection. This severely depletes the water table. Moreover, the extraction of groundwater also creates the potential for contaminants to be introduced into the groundwater. This poses problems to nearby humans twofold. Not only is the water supply for agriculture and daily use disrupted, but the remaining water supply is also likely polluted with chemicals.

 

Author: Alicia Tiu

 

References

Larsson, F., Andersson, P., Blomqvist, P., & Mellander, B. (2017). Toxic fluoride gas emissions from lithium-ion battery fires. Scientific Reports, 7(1). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-017-09784-z.

National Research Council (US) Subcommittee on Acute Exposure Guideline Levels.. (2004). Acute Exposure Guideline Levels for Selected Airborne Chemicals. Acute Exposure Guideline Levels for Selected Airborne Chemicals, 4. https://doi.org/10.17226/10902.

Katwala, A. (2018). The spiralling environmental cost of our lithium battery addiction. Retrieved July 01, 2020, from https://www.wired.co.uk/article/lithium-batteries-environment-impact.

#3: Why we need a Pollution Revolution

It is very easy for us to shrug off our role in contributing pollutants into human environments, especially if those environmental costs are being hidden under our noses. However, even if we do not want to believe in the impacts of pollution issues, we may not have much choice. Especially not if our own lives or the lives of our loved ones are threatened as well. Here are several reasons why it is so important to address Environmental Pollution

 

1. It Impacts our Health  

 

  Source: Fred Rivett

 

Environmental pollution can have a direct effect on humans through physical contact or direct inhalation of toxins and pollutants. Examples of the latter include China’s smog and South Korea’s fine dust pollution that residents deal with almost daily. Another prominent example is the annual South East Asian Haze, a transnational air pollution crisis that affects people in Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Brunei and so on. In the 2013 SEA Haze event, the PM2.5 concentration in Singapore at its highest was equivalent to passively smoking 150 cigarettes (Van der Zee et al., 2016). Such direct exposure to the pollutants can impact human health greatly, causing short term respiratory illnesses or gastro-intestinal and skin related conditions. In the long term, it can lower our immune systems and increase our risk of contracting cardio-vascular and respiratory illnesses. Notably, Xiao Wu et al (2020) found that previous exposure to PM2.5 was associated with “an 8% increase in the COVID-19 death rate), highlighting that pollution can indeed have unexpected and long term impacts on our health. 

 

However, exposure to toxins and chemicals can also be in a more insidious and unexpected form – through our food and water, the very essentials that are supposed to maintain and improve our health. The pollution transfer continuum and bioaccumulation are two concepts that explain why this impact occurs. 

 

The Pollution Transfer Continuum is a timeline of pollution from source to sink, highlighting the overall large and complex reach and impact it can have. It is based on a study on The Phosphorus Transfer Continuum by (Haygarth et al., 2005; Withers and Haygarth, 2007) and is outlined in the figure below. 

 

The Pollution Transfer Continuum

 

An important takeaway from this continuum is that pollutants can often be mobilised and transported to new environments far from their original source. In this way, they can easily enter surface or subsurface water bodies or agricultural areas, potentially contaminating water sources for locals (for example, read more on India’s Arsenic Groundwater issue) or entering the food chain through the body of organisms that are exposed to the pollutants (through the water, soil or their own contaminated food supply). Bioaccumulation can then occur with the gradual accumulation of the toxin in organisms along the food chain (Chojnacka & Mikulewicz, 2014), eventually appearing in higher levels when consumed by humans, with various poisonous effects. 

 

2. The Longevity and Spread of Pollutants 

The chemistry and original purpose of pollutants often result in them having long half-lives, meaning they can exist in the environment for long periods of time. This entails that new human activity could catalyse a string of events that disrupts the natural chemical balance, leading to the release or chemical transformation of the once buried or neutral pollutants. This is particularly a problem in the Arctic (Morello, 2011), where global warming is triggering the release of toxins once trapped in its ice and snow. 

 

An added layer to such issues, is that the pollutants can also travel long distances, far from its original source, potentially turning into transboundary crises that are complex and difficult to navigate. Air pollution, as seen in the previous example of the South East Asia Haze event, can rapidly spread throughout a whole region, and aquatic pollution can become a geopolitical issue, with disproportionate effects on upstream and downstream countries should a river and watershed cross national boundaries (for example, see the Mekong River’s transboundary heavy metal pollution). 

 

3. It Exacerbates Existing Problems 

As mentioned above, environmental pollution can very easily heighten geopolitical tensions in the case of transboundary pollution. Furthermore, in recent years, the disproportionate pattern of waste and in turn pollution, has become prominent in activism movements. Statistics and case studies have shown that the richest countries and people in the world contribute the most to emissions and waste and yet the poorest experience the effects of such waste:

 

Source: The Guardian

 

  • E-waste is often exported from developed countries, dumped and burned in less developed countries such as Africa and India (Minter, 2016)
  • Pollution from transnational corporation-run factories in less developed countries are dumped into local rivers, contaminating rural water and food supplies.
  • Environmental Racism jarringly highlights how the poor, rural and discriminated are targeted for waste and pollutant dumping sites – 70% of these in America are built near low-income and African American neighbourhoods (Bergman, 2019)  In Canada, indigenous communities are protesting against the TransMountain pipeline which would cut across and potentially pollute indigenous lands (Cecco, 2019). 

 

These are just a few of the reasons that make environmental pollution such a pressing and significant area of concern and as such, warrants even greater governmental, private enterprise and social action to prevent and counter it.  

 

Author: Madeleine Shutler

 

References 

Bergman, M. (2019, March 08). ‘They chose us because we were rural and poor’: When environmental racism and climate change collide. Retrieved June 28, 2020, from https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/mar/08/climate-changed-racism-environment-south 

Cecco, L. (2019, January 11). Pipeline battle puts focus on Canada’s disputed right to use indigenous land. Retrieved June 28, 2020, from https://www.theguardian.com/world/2019/jan/11/canada-pipeline-indigenous-trudeau-treaty 

Chakraborti, D., Singh, S. K., Rahman, M. M., Dutta, R. N., Mukherjee, S. C., Pati, S., & Kar, P. B. (2018). Groundwater Arsenic Contamination in the Ganga River Basin: A Future Health Danger. International journal of environmental research and public health, 15(2), 180. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph15020180

Chojnacka, K., & Mikulewicz, M. (2014). Bioaccumulation. Encyclopedia of Toxicology, 3rd ser., 456-460. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-386454-3.01039-3

Forber, Kirsty & Withers, Paul & Ockenden, Mary & Haygarth, P.. (2018). The Phosphorus Transfer Continuum: A Framework for Exploring Effects of Climate Change. ael. 3. 10.2134/ael2018.06.0036.  

Fu, Kaidao & Su, Bin & He, Daming & Lu, XiXi & Song, Jingyi & Huang, Jiangcheng. (2012). Pollution assessment of heavy metals along the Mekong River and dam effects. Journal of Geographical Sciences. 22. 10.1007/s11442-012-0969-3. 

Minter, A. (2016, January 13). The Burning Truth Behind an E-Waste Dump in Africa. Retrieved June 28, 2020, from https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/burning-truth-behind-e-waste-dump-africa-180957597/

Morello, L. (2011, July 25). Climate Change Remobilizes Long Buried Pollution as Arctic Ice Melts. Retrieved June 28, 2020, from https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/climate-change-remobilizes-buried-pollution-as-arctic-ice-melts/

The Guardian. (2017, July 04). Is inequality bad for the environment? Retrieved June 28, 2020, from https://www.theguardian.com/inequality/2017/jul/04/is-inequality-bad-for-the-environment 

Van der Zee, S., Fischer, P., & Hoek, G. (2016.). Air pollution in perspective: Health risks of air pollution expressed in equivalent numbers of passively smoked cigarettes. Elsevier, 148, 475-483. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.envres.2016.04.001 

Xiao Wu, Nethery, R. C., Sabath, M., Braun, D., & Dominici, F. (2020). Exposure to air pollution and COVID-19 mortality in the United States: A nationwide cross-sectional study.

#2: A Wake-Up Call

The Hidden Pollution in our Daily Lives

The word pollution stems from the Latin word pollutionem, meaning “to desecrate, to defile” (Online Etymology Dictionary, n.d.). In today’s globalised and fast-paced world, the separation of production and consumption processes often entails that such desecration on Mother Nature and human lives pass unnoticed. Yet, pollution remains embedded in the majority of the everyday products and events we encounter. Today, we decided to take a second look at our day’s activities, to identify the hidden pollution that they may have generated. 

 

Snippets from Our Daily Routine (Circuit Breaker Edition) 

Since the start of the great Singapore Circuit Breaker (CB), we like many other Singaporeans, have found ourselves sleeping and waking up much later as compared to our pre-CB routines. Madeleine’s past habit of making a homemade breakfast has been replaced by her parents ‘dabao-ing’ lunch for her (noon being a typical wake up time for her). Today, lunch consisted of curry chicken and assorted side dishes, which she is ashamed to admit, generated a large amount of plastic trash as pictured in Image 1. 

 


Image 1 : Trash from today’s Lunch

 

Alicia’s day on the other hand, began with a parcel delivery, a product of her retail therapy phase on ‘Shopee’ (a popular shopping platform in Singapore) during the start of CB (Image 2). 

 

Image 2: Trash from Parcel Delivery 

 

Upon reflection, it was evident to us that pollution was very much embedded in such trash that we generated. Toxic leakages of chemicals into nearby water bodies or pollutants into the air follows plastic and such disposal packaging from its manufacture overseas to eventual disposal via incineration and dumping into Singapore’s Semakau landfill (The Straits Times, 2018). In this way, pollutants like microplastics can eventually end up contaminating our water supply and food chains or end up in our lungs itself through direct inhalation (CIEL, n.d.). 

 

After lunch, Alicia spent the rest of the afternoon playing the video game ‘Overcooked’ (Image 3), while Madeleine similarly spent her time surfing social media and YouTube, as well as watching the online lectures for our Geography module, GE3246. On a surface level, using our phones, PC computers and laptops have become second nature to us, essential to our daily functioning during CB. However, today we stopped to think about the link between pollution and my electronic devices (Image 4).  

 

Image 3: Overcooked Video Game (Source: Steam)

Image 4: Electricity Use for Activities 

 

Singapore generates 95% of its electrical supply from natural gas (EMA, n.d.), a fuel source largely touted for its efficiency and low environmental impacts. However, is it as non-pollutive as we believe? Natural gas is most commonly produced by hydraulic fracturing, and Carpenter (2016) highlights the pollutive problems associated with it, including:

  • Groundwater contamination from the leakage of toxic wastewater containing salt and chemicals, during its transportation or disposal. 
  • The release of methane and carcinogenic pollutants such as benzene, contributing to air pollution. 
  • These impacts are implicative of the short and long term health effects on “workers and near-by residents who are exposed to air and water contaminants, radioactivity and excessive noise and light pollution” (Carpenter, 2016). 

 

Additionally, the long term impact on health from PC use is still very much up in the air. Bakó-Biró (2004) points out how this is a neglected yet prominent source of indoor pollution, with ‘stealth chemicals’ decreasing air quality, leading to Sick Building Syndrome (SBS) symptoms and lower productivity. More and more, we are wondering if the multiple laptops and computers in my vicinity during CB are the culprits behind our increase in migraines and fatigue. 

Both of us then ended the day by winding down with the air conditioner switched on (Image 5). Once again, its pollutive cycle is linked to possible inefficient and improper processes during manufacture, the energy associated with its transportation and usage, and its eventual disposal should it stop working in the future. 

 

Image 5: Air conditioner Usage 

 

Such appliances highlight that we, in the comfort of our homes, may not be the ones experiencing firsthand the health and environmental impacts from the pollution generated in its life cycle. Rather, these impacts are often disproportionately felt across various communities, countries and regions, which is a significant issue within the study of environmental pollution. As such, this blog aims to uncover more well-hidden sources of pollution in day-to-day life, as well as bring about a possible revolution of lifestyle changes and solutions.

 

Author: Madeleine Shutler

 

References: 

Bakó-Biró, Z., Wargocki, P., Weschler, C. J., & Fanger, P. O. (2004). Effects of pollution from personal computers on perceived air quality, SBS symptoms and productivity in offices. Indoor air, 14(3), 178–187. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0668.2004.00218.x

Carpenter, D. O. (2016). Hydraulic fracturing for natural gas: impact on health and environment, Reviews on Environmental Health, 31(1), 47-51. Doi: https://doi-org.libproxy1.nus.edu.sg/10.1515/reveh-2015-0055

CIEL. (n.d.). Plastic and Human Health: A Lifecycle Approach to Plastic Pollution. Retrieved June 25, 2020, from 

https://www.ciel.org/project-update/plastic-and-human-health-a-lifecycle-approach-to-plastic-pollution/

EMA. (n.d.). Electricity Journey. Retrieved June 25, 2020, from 

https://www.ema.gov.sg/electricity-journey.aspx 

Online Etymology Dictionary. (n.d.). Pollution (n.). Retrieved June 25, 2020, from 

https://www.etymonline.com/word/pollution

The Straits Times. (2018, November 20). Watch: Where does all your rubbish go? Retrieved June 25, 2020, from https://www.straitstimes.com/singapore/where-does-all-your-rubbish-go 

 

 

#1: Hello, we are @thepollutionrevolution

Meet the Writers 

Madeleine is a second-year Geography major at NUS. She first fell in love with Geography in Secondary One, enthralled by her teacher who ran around the classroom picking up and dropping school bags while explaining river deposition. Since then, Madeleine has picked up interests in Social and Cultural Geographies, Urban Planning and Sustainability. Like many of us, Madeleine is trying to inculcate new habits into her daily routine during Circuit Breaker, and has recently enjoyed cooking family dinners, as well as learning the art of cold brew coffee. 

 

Alicia is also a second-year Geography major at NUS. She grew to love Geography when she began to be exposed to the more human/cultural-aspect side of the subject in NUS. Also having a thorough interest in ethics, she tries hard to synthesize her Geography major with her Philosophy minor when she considers sustainability issues. During this Circuit Breaker period, Alicia is spending more time with her family and her dog, spending her off-time playing video games while she still can.