How is fast fashion linked to the forest? Trees are also cut down to make space for landfills and to accommodate the wastes generated from clothing disposal (Choudhary, 2022). The process of tree removal is also known as deforestation. Deforestation causes biodiversity loss and emits a large amount of greenhouse gases (Butt et al., 2021). Moreover, when fire is used to burn the forest, it also releases a huge range of air pollutants which can aggravate poor air quality (Butt et al., 2021). For instance, fires are a dominant source of fine particulate matter (PM2.5) over the Amazon. Exposure to pollutants of this size increases the risk of detrimental health impacts (Butt et al., 2021).
In addition, trees are also often removed from the forest to meet the demand for fabric production (Choudhary, 2022). It was recorded that approximately 150 million trees are logged and transformed into fabric every year (Hill, 2019). One particular material derived from tree cutting is Viscose. Viscose, also known as the alternative of silk, is attained from the “cellulose” or wood pulp from burgeoning and regenerating trees like eucalyptus, beech and bamboo (Hill, 2019). They are often cut down and put aside into a chemical mixture to create a pulpy viscous substance which will then be spun into fibres which are eventually transformed into threads (Hill, 2019).
An image of the water pollution caused by the chemical processing of Viscose plants in Jiangxi, China. (Source: Changing Markets Foundation)
It has been underscored by Hill (2019) that the process of soaking the pulp in the chemical mixture is highly polluting as it releases an abundance of toxic chemicals into the air and water bodies located near the production plants. In 2017, the Investigators for the Changing Markets Foundation inspected about 10 clothing production sites in China and India and Indonesia (Hoskins, 2017). Through their visit to a particular Viscose production site in Jiangxi, a province located in the Southeast of China, they discovered dire environmental damage including water and air pollution, and unprocessed poisonous waste as seen from the image above (Hoskins, 2017). The pollution has resulted in severe health implications for the local communities and has killed numerous aquatic life (Hoskins, 2017). Hoskins (2017) also highlighted that many fast fashion brands such as H&M and Zara engage and source from these factories. Therefore, production caused by fast fashion could bring about deforestation and pollution in the local communities.
Robertson (2023) has also identified that the process of dissolving the pulp to produce threads wastes roughly about 70% of the tree. Therefore, upon reflecting, is it worth it for fast fashion companies to generate profit at the expense of the environment? Could these adverse effects of deforestation and chemical processes be avoided? I believe that through research, other sustainable alternatives could be available and usage can be minimised. However, how many of these fast fashion companies are willing to make the changes if it means increased production costs which could potentially threaten their profits?
Here are some thoughts to think about, till next time!
References
Butt, E. W., Conibear, L., Knote, C., & Spracklen, D. V. (2021). Large air quality and public health impacts due to amazonian deforestation fires in 2019. GeoHealth, 5(7), e2021GH000429. https://doi.org/10.1029/2021GH000429
Choudhary, A. (2022). How is deforestation caused by the fashion industry? Let Clothes Live Long. https://letclotheslivelong.org/2022/04/18/how-is-deforestation-caused-by-the-fashion-industry/
Hill, M. (2019). Fashion’s footprint in our forests. Good On You. https://goodonyou.eco/fashions-footprint-forests/
Hoskins, T. (2017). H&m, zara and marks & spencer linked to polluting viscose factories in asia. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2017/jun/13/hm-zara-marks-spencer-linked-polluting-viscose-factories-asia-fashion
Robertson, L. (2023). Material guide: What is viscose and is it sustainable? Good On You. https://goodonyou.eco/material-guide-viscose-sustainability/
