During the lecture on the normalisation of pollution, Prof. Taylor brought up the example of the leather tanning industry through this video which showcased the horrid working conditions of the industry (Figure 1). The male workers were subjected to harsh chemicals and the stench of pigeon poop, which one described as “suffocating”, in order to soften the leather to a suitable level throughout the tanning process (National Geographic, 2013). Furthermore, they only earned a measly $2 dollars a day as a beginner, and $5 if they were good at their craft (National Geographic, 2013).
Figure 1. Leather tanneries in Italy. Source: Labour Behind the Label, 2016. https://labourbehindthelabel.org/a-tough-story-of-leather/
Further research also highlights the environmentally pollutive impacts of the leather tanneries, resulting in increasingly toxic water qualities in various water bodies, such as nearby rivers, lakes and even groundwater sources (Borrely et al., 2018). This has led to harmful impacts on the ecosystems and organisms in the respective water bodies, where the protective systems of marine life are compromised while marine flora face decreased photosynthetic rates due to toxic water quality levels (Borrely et al., 2018).
The toxicity of the wastewater stem from the chemicals within it, such as chromium, sulphides, acids and even arsenic (Gallagher, 2014; PETA, 2022). Unfortunately, these chemicals possess carcinogenic properties and the male workers face increased risk of lung, pancreatic and skin cancer, such as melanoma (Rastogi et al., 2007). Male workers who had prolonged exposure to the chemicals also found that they experienced skin discolouration, where the skin was turned white (Figure 2, Gallagher, 2014).
Figure 2. Skin discolouration faced by male workers in leather tanneries in India. Source: Gallagher, 2014. https://pulitzercenter.org/stories/india-toxic-price-leather
Considering the severe impacts of the tanning industry, not just on the environment but on the people involved, why are these issues not brought to light? More on the social impacts within the male-dominated leather industry will be covered in the next post.
References
Borrely, S. I., Rosa, J. M., Boiani, N. F., Garcia, V. S. G., & Sousa, A. L. (2018). Emerging pollutants, related toxicity, and water quality decreasing: Tannery, textile, and pharmaceuticals load pollutants. Biology, Engineering and Medicine, 3(6). https://doi.org/10.15761/bem.1000157
Gallagher, S. (2014). India: The toxic price of leather. Pulitzer Center. Retrieved February 17, 2023, from https://pulitzercenter.org/stories/india-toxic-price-leather
National Geographic (Director). (2013). The Foul, Fascinating World of Tanning Skins | National Geographic [Film]. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmN_2VXY23M
PETA [People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals]. (2022). Environmental hazards of leather. PETA. Retrieved February 17, 2023, from https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/leather-industry/leather-environmental-hazards/
Rastogi, S. K., Kesavachandran, C., Mahdi, F., & Pandey, A. (2007). Occupational cancers in Leather Tanning Industries: A short review. Indian Journal of Occupational and Environmental Medicine, 11(1), 3. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5278.32456