“Aging and Revitalization” by Germaine Tan

Tsuetate Onsen, a hot springs town located in Oguni Town, Kumamoto Prefecture, was our first destination and the one I liked most. Tsuetate was prosperous in the Showa period, but like many other rural areas in Japan, it is now in the midst of decline.

A dull and silent street made worse by a drizzle greeted us after our two-hour bus ride from the airport. However, the quiet streets and old buildings surrounded by billowing steam evoked nostalgia and gave us a sense of “old Japan”. We found a place for lunch that could fit all of us, but the owner was overwhelmed by the thought of preparing food for such a big group. It seemed clear that she rarely has so many customers, which further reflects the lack of visitors to the onsen.

After lunch, we were assigned different areas of town and tasked to observe the surroundings and talk to locals we encountered. My partner and I hardly saw anyone in our assigned area, and we found nearly all houses and shops at the edge town were closed or abandoned. It is sad that this once prosperous area is now like a ghost town. We were lucky to find an elderly woman at a gasoline stand able to chat. She mentioned that a serious case of ageing population and many young people leaving for better opportunities in the cities has resulted in the loss of vitality within the town. Furthermore, rising competition from nearby onsen like Beppu, Yufuin, and Kurokawa, coupled with the stagnant economy, has caused fewer people to visit. However, the people of Tsuetate are still trying. There are activities such as the famous koinobori display, whereby carp streamers are hung above and across the river, the Tsuetate puddings, and several festivals. But the effects of these activities remain limited, since they are seasonal.

I was astonished to find that when asked if she hopes the onsen can return to its glory days she replied, “Isn’t it fine to just remain like this? We brought up our kids, instilling them with the idea that it is okay (to work in big cities in future) to not return. Tsuetate can return to the days before it became prosperous and famous, running small business in peace and tranquility.” Her reply struck me hard into thinking about the true purpose of revitalization. What does it mean to revitalize? To what extent should we revitalize? How should towns like Tsuetate, with a majority of old people, best survive in future?